Simply Organic

The news is full of claims (sometimes vague, always scary) of how conventional farming harms both our bodies and the environment. And what was once the focus of small farmers and environmental idealists is now a major force in big business, with retail giants like Wal-Mart getting in on the action. All signs seem to say everything you eat should be organic. But is that really necessary? Or practical? Are organic products worth the extra legwork and, more importantly, the added cost at the checkout?

The conventional food conundrum
Widespread use of pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, growth hormones and antibiotics in conventional farming means that with every nonorganic food you eat, there’s a risk of your body’s absorbing these potentially dangerous compounds. Although more research is needed to confirm the dangers of consuming foods with traces of fertilizers, hormones and antibiotics, past studies have linked continuous exposure to pesticides to both cancer and diminished brain function in farm workers. In January 2006, researchers from Harvard, the University of Michigan at Ann Arbor and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention published a study that found that men with higher levels of the pesticide chlorpyrifos in their systems produced lower levels of testosterone, the sex hormone that plays a role in fertility and immune function. The leaders of the study noted that the subjects tested had no specific contact—such as working on a farm—with the pesticide, leading them to believe it may have entered their systems through other means, possibly food.

Pediatricians have long been proponents of organic options, mainly because children are especially susceptible to the health impact of nonorganic foods. Their small frames, fast metabolisms and high intake of grains, fruits and vegetables mean their systems absorb compounds faster and their body functions are affected more quickly and dramatically than those of adults. (Just think of how hyper kids get when they eat a sugary treat!)

Simply switching to organic products for juice, produce and grain products can lower and even eliminate pesticide chemicals found in kids’ systems in just five days, according to a study at Emory University in Atlanta published in the February 2006 issue of Environmental Health Perspectives. “After five consecutive days of organic foods, the body actually washed out all of the pesticides,” explains Chensheng Lu, PhD, who led the study. “But once the kids in the study went back to their conventional diets, the pesticide levels went back up.”

Many people believe that following an organic diet, or at least eliminating certain nonorganic foods, simply makes them feel better. “I’ve been sick and I’m clearly better, partly from eating organic foods,” says Atlanta resident Millay Wood. After seeing over 20 doctors and being diagnosed with everything from food allergies to fibromyalgia, Wood finally brought her health under control through a whole-foods diet. “Now, when I don’t eat organic, I feel awful afterwards and wake up lethargic the next morning,” she adds.

The cost of change
Wood acknowledges that it’s nearly impossible to have an all-organic lifestyle, especially if you’re on a budget. “I have to balance my choices and buy only the organic foods I think are most important, like dairy and eggs,” she says.

As more organic products make their way into mainstream grocery stores—the Kroger, SuperValu and Safeway chains now boast their own organic lines—prices are going down. For instance, at a Safeway store in Washington, DC, the house brand “O Organics” tomato pasta sauce cost $2.45 per 25-oz. jar, slightly less than two conventional brand-name sauces on the shelf. Organic celery in the Ralphs supermarket in El Segundo, CA, was the same price as conventionally grown. These competitive prices make it easier to squeeze organic options into food budgets. “Every little move towards organics is worthwhile,” affirms Alan Greene, MD, a San Franisco–based pediatrician.

But many health experts caution against getting too focused on making a total switch. “We’re resilient creatures,” says Cynthia Lair, RD, a whole-foods production instructor at Bastyr University near Seattle. “Viewing food as something to be afraid of rather than enjoyed is a pretty harmful lifestyle.”

In other words, no matter where it comes from, food should also be about enjoyment—and flavor. That’s why we came up with six recipes that highlight some of the best fruits, vegetables and pantry items to choose as organic. Whether you’re an all-organic activist, a natural-food fan or an occasional healthy eater, that’s a side of the issue you can really sink your teeth into.