Spice Things Up

Want more flavor?
You’re not alone. A cart full of fresh produce has sent many a chef to the supermarket spice aisle in search of new dinner ideas.

Trouble is, those store shelves overflowing with little bottles, some inscribed with exotic names you’ve only read in vacation brochures, can be daunting to even the most avid cooks. In fact, a few of the world’s top chefs are completely clueless when it comes to spices. So, where do you begin? Relax. Breathe deep. And let me lead you through a few selections that’ll set you on a safe and fl avorful path.

The spices prescribed here are an assortment that most kitchens have and every kitchen needs. I’ve divided them into fi ve basics and fi ve either/or options. The either/or options complete the range of flavoring possibilities but allow plenty of flexibility for the cook who can’t stand curry or is allergic to nutmeg. Then come the recipes: fi ve easy dishes that showcase the essence of each spice. Once you’re done shopping (and cooking), you’ll be able to season just about any dish that comes across your culinary radar. Plus, you’ll be able to skip that trip down the spice aisle the next time you go to the store because you’ll already have a great collection waiting at home.

The Basics
These five spices deserve a permanent place in your kitchen, preferably in airtight containers away from heat and light. (If you can reach your spices while standing at a blazing hot stove, move them now.)

1. Black Pepper
   Forget the flavorless pepper dust sold in cans. Switching to freshly ground black peppercorns will revolutionize your cooking. They have a peppery taste, but also a sort of heat, similar to chiles.
   
   
   • LOOK FOR uncracked kernels with uniform color. Bite into one and inhale … if it’s fresh, you’ll feel heat right away.
     
   • TRY IN everything!
     
   • EXPERT ADVICE To avoid overpowering a dish with pepper, grind peppercorns as needed onto a separate dish or a piece of parchment paper. From there, add it to a recipe, and adjust to taste.
   
   
2. Cinnamon
   Best known for its use in baked goods, cinnamon also offers surprising depth of flavor and versatility in entrées and vegetable dishes.
   
   
   • LOOK FOR brands that identify the country of origin. Buy from stores that have a high turnover of spices—ground cinnamon can lose its fl avor in 6 months.
   • TRY IN Middle Eastern recipes or anything with tomatoes. Sprinkle into squash and eggplant dishes.
   • EXPERT ADVICE Take a sniff to make sure the fl avorful oils are still pungent. If you can’t smell it, you won’t be able to taste it.
     
     
3. Cumin
   A signature flavor in Mexican and Indian cuisines, cumin has a bright, grassy taste that’s instantly recognizable—it’s one of the main seasonings in chili.
   
   
   • LOOK FOR consistently colored whole seeds that have a slightly greenish tinge to them.
   • TRY IN chili, curries, roasted root vegetables, and bean dishes.
   • EXPERT ADVICE Cumin is potent enough to hold up to roasting and long simmering, but try adding a pinch at the very end of cooking to fully impart its unique flavor.
     
     
4. Herb Blend
   Whether you choose Italian seasoning, herbes de Provence, or your own mix of dried basil, oregano, and thyme, a basic herb blend can liven up everything from a salad dressing to a savory stew.
   
   
   • LOOK FOR intensely aromatic leaves—rub them between your fingers and take a whiff.
   • TRY IN tomato sauces, potato dishes, and grilled veggies. Stir into hummus or sprinkle on flat breads and olives.
   • EXPERT ADVICE Mix 1 part herb blend with 3 parts coarse sea salt for an all-purpose table seasoning that’s been used throughout Europe for centuries.
     
     
5. Paprika
   Many cooks think of paprika merely as a color booster for pale foods like deviled eggs. But it’s an underused workhorse that can serve as a thickener and flavor enhancer for simple dishes.
   
   
   • LOOK FOR vibrant reddish-orange powder that smells slightly fruity. If possible, taste a bit on your fingertip—it should register as subtly sweet.
   • TRY IN egg dishes, vegetable medleys, and winter soups and stews.
   • EXPERT ADVICE Steer clear of the various “hot” versions, as they are typically blended with nonpaprika chiles.

Either/or Options
Take your pick—or try them all. These categories represent classic taste profi les that will round out an entry-level spice rack and give you enough variety to season a full spectrum of foods. The options in each category are interchangeable in most recipes, though their flavors are entirely different.

1. Chili or curry powder
   One has Tex-Mex roots, the other is inspired by the dishes of India, but both are all-purpose blends that can be used in everything from dips to bean dishes.
   
   
   • LOOK FOR salt-free brands whose first ingredient isn’t paprika (in the case of chili powder) or turmeric (for curry powder).
   • TRY IN rice-and-bean recipes, marinades, and tomato-based dishes.
   • EXPERT ADVICE Experiment with different brands until you find the blend that suits your palate best.
     
     
2. Fennel or Caraway
   These two similar-looking seeds have unique, distinctive flavors: Fennel tastes like licorice; caraway is woody and pleasantly bitter.
   
   
   • LOOK FOR whole seeds that are uniform in color.
   • TRY IN stews, sautéed vegetables, potato dishes, and bread dough.
   • EXPERT ADVICE Crack seeds or grind them completely in a grinder to release flavor. To crack: Place desired amount in a resealable plastic bag and crush with the bottom of a heavy skillet. Alternatively, toast the seeds in a dry skillet 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant.
     
     
3. Dill Weed or Rosemary
   Fragrant and hearty, both retain their original flavor when dried and can stand up to stronger ingredients. Rosemary has heady pine overtones; dill is slightly sour.
   
   
   • LOOK FOR full leaves that are vibrant green, not brown or gray. Rub between your fingers and sniff for potency.
   • TRY IN potato and bean dishes. Or season breadcrumbs with either as a topping or crust on casseroles.
   • EXPERT ADVICE Balance the intensity of these herbs with pungent ingredients—like vinegar in dressings— or simmer slowly to mellow the flavor.
     
     
4. Mustard or Coriander
   Mustard and coriander seeds work best in foods that cook slowly and release their fl avors. Coriander has a faint lemon flavor; mustard seeds are mildly spicy, like the condiment of the same name.
   
   
   • TRY IN braised cabbage and other leafy greens, as well as spicy stews, sauces, and marinades.
   • LOOK FOR seeds that are not cracked or split, a sign that they’re old.
   • EXPERT ADVICE Toast the seeds in a dry skillet 1 to 2 minutes to release the spice’s flavor.
     
     
5. Nutmeg, Allspice, or cloves
   Each of these spices is distinctively strong, but used sparingly, they can be interchanged in recipes to wake up mild flavors.
   
   
   • LOOK FOR whole, light brown nutmegs without blemishes and whole, undamaged allspice berries or clove buds.
   • TRY IN cream sauces, quiches, fruit dishes, and chocolate desserts.
   • EXPERT ADVICE Ground nutmeg loses its pungency within hours, so buy whole and shave as needed using a grater or Microplane zester.

RECIPES:

PEPPERY SPINACH WITH NUTMEG CREAM
Serves 4

Infusing freshly ground nutmeg into the milk makes every bite of this dish rich and delicious. Serve as a main course with seasoned rice or couscous, or as a side dish. Feel free to substitute allspice as well—just reduce the amount to 1 teaspoon.

2 cups low-fat milk
2 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/4 to 1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
2 10-oz. pkgs. frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained
1 cup low-fat cottage cheese
2 large eggs, beaten
1/2 cup breadcrumbs

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Coat 4 12-oz. ramekins with cooking spray.
2. Place milk, nutmeg, and pepper in saucepan, and season with salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, and simmer 10 to 12 minutes, or until volume has reduced by one-third, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, and cool 10 minutes.
3. Stir in spinach, cottage cheese, and eggs. Spoon into prepared ramekins, and sprinkle each with 2 Tbs. breadcrumbs.
4. Set ramekins in roasting pan, and fi ll pan one-third full with hot water. Bake 45 minutes, or until tops are browned.

PER SERVING: 208 CAL; 18 G PROT; 6 G TOTAL FAT (3 G SAT. FAT); 16 G CARB; 118 MG CHOL; 714 MG SOD; 2 G FIBER; 10 G SUGARS

ROOT VEGETABLE CHILI SOUP
Serves 4 - Vegan

Root vegetables like rutabagas and carrots are great for spicy kitchen experiments because they lend subtle sweetness to dishes. Believe it or not, you can use curry powder in place of the chili powder here—the soup will have an Indian fl air. Dishes that call for chili and curry powders get better over time, so make this dish a day ahead.

1/2 cup fresh or frozen corn, thawed
2 Tbs. canola oil
1 small onion, chopped (1 cup)
2 cloves garlic, minced (2 tsp.)
4 tsp. mild chili powder
2 tsp. ground cumin
2 small rutabagas, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (1 1/2 lb.)
2 medium carrots, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (1/2 lb.)
1 28-oz. can diced tomatoes 1 small russet potato, finely diced (1 cup)
2 Anaheim, banana, or mild peppers, seeded and chopped (3/4 cup)
1 small red bell pepper, chopped (2/3 cup)
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely diced, optional
1 15-oz. can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
Chopped green onions or cilantro for garnish

1. Heat large pot over medium heat. Add corn, and sauté 2 minutes, or until beginning to brown. Add oil, onion, and garlic, and sauté 3 to 5 minutes, or until onion is soft. Stir in chili powder and cumin, and cook 2 minutes, scraping bottom of pan with spatula.
2. Add rutabagas, carrots, tomatoes, potato, Anaheim pepper, bell pepper, jalapeño, if using, and 3 cups water.
3. Bring pot to a simmer, and season with salt. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
4. Add beans and cook, uncovered, 45 minutes, or until soup thickens. Serve garnished with green onions or cilantro.

PER SERVING: 236 CAL; 8 G PROT; 6 G TOTAL FAT (0.5 G SAT. FAT); 40 G CARB; 0 MG CHOL; 417 MG SOD; 13 G FIBER; 15 G SUGARS

PAPRIKA CAULIFLOWER PITA POCKETS
Serves 4 - Vegan - 30 minutes or fewer

Cauliflower, like paprika, is frequently undervalued in home kitchens. What better way to highlight them both than with this simple dish. Try topping with fresh tomatoes, chopped black olives, and some low-fat Parmesan cheese.

1 head cauliflower (2 lb.), cut into bite-size florets
3 Tbs. olive oil 2 Tbs. sweet Hungarian paprika
1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. fine sea salt
1 small red onion, diced (1 cup)
1 clove garlic, minced (1 tsp.)
1/2 cup low-sodium vegetable broth
2 Tbs. lemon juice
4 pita bread rounds, halved and warmed

1. Steam cauliflower 7 to 9 minutes, or until tender.
2. Heat oil, paprika, pepper, and salt in nonstick skillet over medium-low heat, 2 minutes, or until fragrant, stirring constantly. Add onion and garlic, and sauté 2 minutes more. Stir in broth and cauliflower, and simmer 3 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in lemon juice. Serve with pita halves.

PER SERVING: 318 CAL; 9 G PROT; 11.5 G TOTAL FAT (1.5 G SAT. FAT); 46 G CARB; 0 MG CHOL; 663 MG SOD; 6 G FIBER; 6 G SUGARS

DILLED POTATO FRITTATA
Serves 4 - 30 minutes or fewer

Dill weed has a sourness that pairs well with potatoes. If you want to make the recipe with dried rosemary instead of dill, reduce the amount to 1 tablespoon and skip the yogurt sauce in step 5.

1 lb. russet potatoes, sliced
3 Tbs. cider vinegar
3 Tbs. olive oil, divided
2 Tbs. dried dill weed, divided
4 cloves garlic, minced (4 tsp.), divided
1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. fine sea salt 1 small onion, finely diced (1 cup)
1 small tomato, diced (3/4 cup)
2 large eggs, beaten
3/4 cup plain fat-free yogurt
2 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. Soak potatoes in cold water 10 minutes to remove excess starch. Drain and pat dry. Whisk together vinegar, 2 Tbs. olive oil, 1 Tbs. dill, 3 tsp. garlic, mustard, pepper, and salt in large bowl.
2. Cook potatoes in large pot of boiling water 5 minutes, or until tender. Drain, and toss with dill mixture.
3. Preheat oven to broil. Heat remaining oil in ovenproof skillet over mediumhigh heat. Sauté onion and tomato 5 minutes, or until soft. Transfer to bowl and fold in eggs.
4. Spread potato mixture in same skillet, and reduce heat to medium. Cover, and cook 6 minutes, or until crust begins to form on underside. Pour egg mixture over potatoes. Cook 4 minutes, or until eggs are set.
5. Combine yogurt, remaining dill, and garlic in bowl. Top frittata with cheese, if desired, and place under broiler 2 minutes. Slice into wedges, and serve with yogurt mixture.

PER SERVING: 244 CAL; 8 G PROT; 11 G TOTAL FAT (2 G SAT. FAT); 30 G CARB; 107 MG CHOL; 565 MG SOD; 3 G FIBER; 6 G SUGARS

VEGAN SNICKERDOODLES
Makes 45 cookies - Vegan

Snickerdoodles are just sugar cookies rolled in cinnamon sugar. Try adding 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg or allspice to the cinnamon sugar to boost flavor.

Cookie Dough 13/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup cornstarch 1 tsp. baking powder 1 stick (4 oz.) vegan margarine, softened 3/4 cup sugar 1/4 cup vanilla soymilk 1 tsp. vanilla extract Cinnamon Sugar 1/2 cup sugar 3 Tbs. ground cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Coat baking sheet with cooking spray.
2. To make Cookie Dough: Whisk together flour, cornstarch, and baking powder in bowl. Beat margarine in separate bowl with electric mixer until soft. Add sugar, and beat until fluffy. Beat in soymilk and vanilla extract 30 seconds or until smooth. Add flour mixture, and beat 30 seconds or until smooth.
3. To make Cinnamon Sugar: Combine sugar and cinnamon on large plate.
4. Shape dough into 1-inch balls. Roll each ball in Cinnamon Sugar, and place 11/2 inches apart on prepared baking sheet. Bake 10 to 12 minutes, or until cookies look dry on tops and are lightly browned on bottoms. Transfer to wire rack to cool. Store in airtight container.

PER COOKIE: 49 CAL; 1 G PROT; 1.5 G TOTAL FAT (0.5 G SAT. FAT); 9 G CARB; 0 MG CHOL; 29 MG SOD; 1 G FIBER; 4 G SUGARS

Tony Hill is the author of The Spice Lover’s Guide to Herbs and Spices. He lives on the side of a remote mountain with several hundred spice bottles and far too many cats.