Spicy Surprise

Cinnamon may be the best known, best loved spice in America, even though most of us have never tasted the “true” stuff. What we call cinnamon is actually cassia, a darker, stronger, spicier cousin of “true” Ceylon cinnamon. But don’t head off to find the Ceylon type quite yet. “When people hear ‘true cinnamon,’ they think ‘Oh, that’s what I want,’” says Pamela Penzey of Penzeys Spices in Brookfield, Wisconsin. “But really, if you’re looking for the taste that takes you back to Grandma’s kitchen, you want cassia.”

Americans have had a love affair with cassia ever since it was brought in from China and Vietnam in the 19th century as a less expensive alternative to Ceylon cinnamon—which, at that time, cost over $100 a pound. “Cassia’s strong, spicy flavor caught on like wildfire,” says Penzey. Today we use it to season everything from fine pastries to Pop Tarts. And at this time of year, cinnamon melds with ginger, nutmeg and cloves to create fragrant pies, spicy cookies and warm mugs of mulled cider.

While American cooking tends to celebrate cinnamon itself—our recipes may call for heaping teaspoons of the spice—other cuisines tap into its subtler side, using small amounts to mellow sharp flavors or infuse warmth, depth and a delicate sweetness.

Moroccan couscous is made richer with cinnamon. The Chinese use cinnamon sticks in some soy and ginger braising liquids, and ground cinnamon is an essential element in Chinese five-spice powder. Indian cooks often add cinnamon to curries. And no true Cincinnati chili—the city’s famous for it—would be complete without a pinch or two.

But the most surprising use of cinnamon may be in Italian cuisine. “The farther south you go, the more cinnamon becomes an Italian spice,” explains Erica De Mane, author of The Flavors of Southern Italy. “I was amazed by how the smallest dash can transform a dish when I recreated a cinnamon-scented ravioli my mother remembered from childhood. I added just a pinch to a pound of ricotta,” she says. “The result was a sweet, exotic taste that came through even after the tomato sauce was added.”

In her own cooking, De Mane adds cinnamon to everything from hearty entrées to zesty tomato sauces. “When I put even the tiniest bit in savory dishes, it just brings it all together.” This less-is-more rule can work wonders in vegetarian cooking where small amounts of cinnamon add depth to simple dishes. For instance:

• Half a stick stirred into a pot of rice adds an enticing scent.
  
• A shake of cinnamon brings out the sweetness of carrots and squash.
  
• A dash tames the bitterness of leafy winter greens such as kale.
  
• A light sprinkle perks up blah coffee beans.
  
• A dusting enlivens pie crust flour.
  
• A pinch makes creamy quiche fillings taste even richer.

So, the next time you want to add a subtle, surprising, “what’s in this?” touch to a dish, just reach for the cinnamon. A quick shake will do it.