For a farmers' market hound like me, September is bliss. Not only is sweet corn still around, but root vegetables, hearty greens, and hard-shell squashes are practically spilling out of farmers' trucks. Every Saturday I scoop up a bag of treasures at the market; every Sunday there's a fabulous and filling fall chowder on the stove for supper. I use three tricks to maximize flavor in these soups: browning vegetables before simmering; generously infusing broths with aromatic veggies (especially alliums, such as leeks and onions); and adding a final flourish of flavor with fresh herbs, citrus juices, vinegar, or soy sauce. Pretty simple and pretty delicious.